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Consumers are ready to experience the softest cleanse

Aligned to the clean beauty movement, we are seeing the emergence of a new category of facial cleanser – the soft cleanse. Here we discuss what’s driving this trend and look at formulations and products to create the softest cleanse.

The most innovative brands across the beauty and derma-cosmetics market have adopted cutting edge surfactant technologies to deliver ultra-mild cleansers, that do not compromise on performance.

Consumer trends suggest a growing move towards sulphate-free formulations that are also free-from harsh or unnecessary ingredients. Alongside this, products that support sensitive skin that are dermatologically tested have been gaining popularity, as discussed in our recent blog “How are sensitive skin needs driving changes in consumer purchasing habits?”

The soft-cleanse format promises the softest, most gentle wash whilst also aiming to boost skin barrier function. For facial cleansers, formulations are designed to gently remove dirt, oil, makeup and impurities from the skin, with brands choosing ingredients that help to minimise the risk of irritation or that help to preserve skins natural moisture.

As an emerging product category, we have been monitoring launch proliferation, where we have seen a year-on-year increase over the last four years, as shown in fig. 1 below.

Graph showing that the number of launches of products with soft cleanse claims has more than doubled between 2010 and 2023.fig. 1 Mintel GNPD number of new products, globally, in face and eye cleanser category with “soft” in the product name, 2010 to 2023 (full year).

Often, the most effective soft-cleansers will boost the skin’s barrier with additional actives that hydrate, replenish and soothe skin. To do this, formulations need to be able to solubilise and deposit key active ingredients effectively, as well as maintaining cleansing performance.

Based on the products we are seeing, our Croda Beauty formulation teams have developed novel concept ideas that meet the soft-cleanse brief:

• Ultra-mild cleansing with highly effective sulphate-free ingredients
• Skin boosting actives to hydrate and or soothe the skin
• Soft-to-touch foam that comforts skin

Introducing four soft-cleanse concepts for ultra-mild, sulphate-free formulations (scroll down to see them all).

Each formulation centres around the unique biosurfactant, NatraFusion™ SL HA.

Our R&D teams have demonstrated that using NatraFusion SL HA in formulation, either as a primary surfactant or blended with other sulphate-free mild surfactants, helps to create very low irritancy products, perfect for creating the softest skin experience.

Even just combining 1% active concentration of NatraFusion SL HA with the commonly used mild surfactant, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, at 10% active can significantly improve the mildness of the surfactant blend through reducing overall irritation potential.

To show the variety of formats NatraFusion SL HA can be incorporated into, the four formulations show case how easy to formulate this ingredient is, including into solid bars or cream emulsion systems. Soft-Cleansers being introduced to consumers cover an array of format types, including gels, waters, oils, and balms.

To meet consumer future needs, the optimised cleansing power of these formulations are here to inspire opportunity to effectively deliver gentler cleansing solutions, for truly mild, low-irritation claims, particularly for consumers with sensitive skin.

You can review the soft-cleanse concepts within our latest concept presentation or find out more about our ultra-mild glycolipid surfactant, NatraFusion SL HA by downloading the full technical datasheet (links below).

Natrafusion™ SL HA Soft Cleanse Formulation Concepts - Presentation

Natrafusion™ SL HA - Technical Data Sheet