The exposome
The term "exposome" has gained traction in the world of cosmetics, particularly in relation to sun care. This concept, first introduced by C.P. Wild in 2005, emphasises the need to understand an individual's environmental exposure with the same precision as we do their genetic makeup. The exposome encompasses all environmental factors that impact our health, from pollution and UV radiation to diet and stress. Here we explore the exposome trend in cosmetics and its pivotal role in sun care.
What is the exposome?
The exposome can be defined as the measure of all the environmental factors an individual is exposed to during a lifetime and how these impact on their health (mental, physical and emotional). It is contrasted with the genome, the genetic factors that also affect health. Research from the human genome project and CDC estimate as little as 10% of our health is determined by genetic factors so the exposome is enormously important in our overall health and, in the cosmetics world, very important for the health of our skin and hair.Understanding the exposome
The exposome can be divided into several categories:
- OUT-SOME or General External Exposome: Factors largely beyond individual control, such as pollution, UV radiation, temperature, and humidity.
- ME_SOME or Specific External Exposome: Individual lifestyle choices, including diet, stress, sleep, smoking, physical activity, and the use of skin care and hair care products.
- UN_SOME or Internal Environment: Factors such as age, physiology, body morphology, health status, and genetics. The individual has little control over these factors. They interact with the Exposome rather than being part of it.
- BIO_SOME or Biological Response: The body’s reaction to the above factors, leading to inflammation, changes in metabolism, microbiome dysregulation, and alterations in gene expression.
The exposome and the personal care industry
The concept of the exposome was originally developed for its implications in medicine, public health and epidemiology but was recognised as relating to the beauty industry relatively early. Science Direct includes a paper on the impact of the exposome in dermatology in 2012. That year, 23 papers on Science Direct referenced the exposome, in 2024 that number rose to 723.
Vichy France released a product with on pack claims to protect “from the Exposome” as early as 2017 but the term hasn’t penetrated consumer consciousness that much. However, it is hugely important to cosmetic businesses conception of the function of their own products, such as L’Oréal’s statement in 2022 that they intend to develop “a strategic research collaboration to establish a longitudinal biological, clinical, environmental view of skin health. It combines L’Oréal’s deep scientific knowledge of skin and Verily’s comprehensive clinical science capabilities, to decode and discover the links between exposome, skin aging, and deep biology of the skin.”
While the term itself might not be on every consumer’s lips, the core concept; that skin and hair health is the result of a combinations of factors including environmental, dietary, mental health and emotional well-being, is well understood by consumers and ties into broader trends such as geoskincare, wellness, and emotive botanicals.
As we discuss in our sunification piece, consumers have an increased understanding of the role these environmental factors play in skin and hair health, and this has led to an increased demand for products that:
- Protect skin and hair from environmental aggressors such as the sun, pollution and temperature.
- Work with the body’s natural responses to these aggressors to enhance their effectiveness.
The role of the exposome in skin health
The exposome plays a crucial role in skin health with Dr Luc Aguilar, a biologist and exposome expert at L'Oréal Research & Innovation, suggesting that daily environmental aggressors are responsible for 80% of skin ageing. (1) As our understanding of the exposome deepens, the cosmetics industry is developing products specifically designed to mitigate these external and internal factors.Key Innovations in sun care
Sun care products are at the forefront of the exposome trend, with new formulations offering enhanced protection against UV rays and other environmental aggressors.
Some standout innovations include:
- Solaveil™ CT-60W: This COSMOS-approved hydrophobic titanium dioxide water-based dispersion offers high SPF efficacy, formulation flexibility, and skin transparency. It provides safe and effective sun protection for different skin tones. Addresses the OUT_SOME.
- SolPerForm™ 100: An exclusive polymer that enhances the film-forming properties of sun protection emulsions. It significantly increases SPF values (by up to 70%), allowing for reduced concentrations of UV filters and offering diverse protection for various skin types. Addresses the OUT_SOME.
- Phytessence™ Osmanthus: Broad-spectrum protection is crucial against environmental damage, especially UV rays. Phytessence Osmanthus prevents harmful chemical processes, including enzymatic changes and DNA damage, caused by free radicals. It also reduces inflammation caused by sun exposure, maintaining skin balance amid environmental changes. Addresses the OUT_SOME.
- Luceane™: Skin oxygenation is vital for cellular health and tissue regeneration, but biological factors can disrupt this process, leading to premature ageing. Luceane protects against hypoxic ageing, promoting skin oxygenation and improving the skin’s natural defence. Addresses the BIO_SOME
- Mel [o] stem™: Lack of awareness about skin protection against UV rays followed by long exposure to the sun can cause irreversible skin disorders. Melostem regulates melanocyte life disorders and hyper and hypopigmentation i.e., the dark and white spots that result from prolonged exposure to the sun. This meets the consumer demand for protection against blemishes and uniformity of tone by. Addresses the ME_SOME.
Sun Care Formulations
These sun care formulations not only provide high-level UV protection but also combat other environmental factors and work with the body’s own responses.
- Fresh Protection SPF 50+: This formulation creates a high-power barrier for the skin, offering balanced UVA/B protection and reducing the impact of excessive heat. The synergistic combination of Calmosensine™ and Luceane promote cellular energy from within.
- Bronzer Colour Shield SPF 50: Combining 100% mineral UVA/B protection with an illuminating effect, this formulation uses pigments and inorganic filters from the Solaveil line. It also prevents the formation of white spots, thanks to Melostem, which regulates melanocyte disorders and promotes even skin tone.
- Mineral Time's UP SPF 50: This product offers balanced UVA/B protection with intelligent application for extra protection in specific areas. It reduces the impact of excessive heat using inorganic filters from the Solaveil line combined with Calmosensine.
Skin Care and Hair Care Formulations
The exposome trend extends beyond sun care to encompass comprehensive skin and hair care solutions. These formulations address various aspects of environmental exposure, ensuring holistic protection and repair.
- Fresh Care Bubble Mask: Offer 15 minutes of your day to energise and heal your skin from fatigue caused by environmental exposure. Thanks to Luceane, a biotechnological active ingredient, find the energy your skin was missing from the inside out and prevent premature ageing.
- Body Primer Oil: Provides a silky sensory experience and prepares the skin for environmental challenges, including prolonged sun exposure. It contains Phytessence Osmanthus for enhanced protection.
- Bio-Engineered Hair Shield: Developed to protect hair from the main environmental aggressors that are part of the general exposome, over which we have no control, and contains a combination of our high-performance bioactive ingredients: Crodasorb™ UV-283, which offers protection against structural damage caused by UVB, Heliogenol™, which offers protection against colour damage caused by UVA, Cropeptide™ W, capable of regulating fibre hydration in different RH situations and Crodamol™ GTS, for shiny, healthy-looking hair.
- Hair Recovery & Reflection Booster: Developed to restore hair to a healthy state, repairing damage caused by our lifestyle choices, such as physical and chemical manipulation of hair. This formulation contains Crodabond™ CSA, which acts as a hair cement to seal the cuticles and recover the natural hydrophobicity of the fiber, Keramatch™ V, a biopeptide with an AA profile similar to hair keratin to increase resistance to breakage, Fruitbio, a bioactive capable of harmonizing the roughness of the damaged fiber and Crodamol™ GTS, for shiny, healthy-looking hair.
- Scalp Recovery & Resistance Concentrate: Developed to resolve the scalp's main biological responses to exposome aggression that can cause inflammation, metabolic dysregulation, microbiome imbalance, etc. Contains Hairspa™, a natural prebiotic complex, Phytessence™ Hazel Leaf, an extract with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant action, and Procapil™, a bioactive ingredient that strengthens the leather structure, accelerating hair growth and preventing hair loss.