Skin flooding: the latest trend in skin hydration

Delve into the skin flooding beauty technique and discover essential cosmetic ingredients that fulfil consumer needs for deep skin hydration.

Skin flooding is the latest buzzword in personal care but essentially it is an evolution of the K-beauty concept of layering multiple skin care products. Consumers start with moist skin and then add skin care products that “lock in” the moisture and prevent it from evaporating (TEWL or trans-epidermal water loss). Because consumers have wet skin and then make it increasingly moist it feels as if the skin is “flooded” i.e. hydrated and plump.

There are 4 steps in a skin flooding routine with cosmetics products rich in hydrating agents being applied onto the skin in a specific order to maximise skin hydration, starting with the thinnest (mist) and building up to thicker products (serums and moisturisers). 

1. Cleanse: arguably the most important step. Failing to prepare the skin properly means that instead of “locking in” moisture you’re locking in oil, sweat and pollution which can lead to acne or other skin health issues.
2. Hydrate: prepare and hydrate the skin by dampening it with a hydrating mist (essence or toner is also suitable), before each serum and moisturiser application. 
3. Boost hydration: improve skin’s moisture levels with a hyaluronic acid serum. If necessary, incorporate an additional serum to address specific skin concerns such as wrinkles. 
4. Moisturisation: seal in the hydration and prevent water loss with a moisturiser. For dry skin, finish with an optional occlusive product like face oil or balm.

Skin flooding is best done at night, as skin tends to lose moisture during sleep. It can be considered a beauty sleep routine which improves skin regeneration and provides a plump and radiant appearance upon waking up.

Why is skin flooding on trend?

With over 84 million views for #skinflooding on TikTok, the specific term is quite new but references skin care trends that have been driving the industry for a while. Layered multi-step techniques ensure that individual skin care products work harmoniously together to be even more effective in combination than they would on their own. This powerful 4-step deep hydration method hydrates, revitalises and reinforces the skin against external aggressions such as heat, pollution, air conditioning and stress. Skin flooding fits the broader shift toward highly effective skincare routines that emphasise skin barrier repair for a dewy, glowing complexion.

What are the benefits of skin flooding?

This deep hydrating routine improves overall skin comfort and appearance:  

• Hydration – helps combat trans-epidermal water loss and provides comfort.
• Skin barrier reinforcement – helps replenish the skin’s natural barrier (stratum corneum). A strong moisture barrier protects against dryness, irritation and premature ageing.
• Radiance – restores and enhances the skin’s radiance and natural glow.
• Plumper and smoother skin – minimises fine lines and wrinkles for a youthful appearance. 

Skin flooding also improves makeup application. It provides a hydrated base to help foundation and concealer to smoothly glide onto the skin for a flawless, radiant finish makeup.

How to optimise cosmetic products for the skin flooding trend? 

Hydrate while stimulating cellular activity to nourish the skin from the inside out.

Cleansers

Moist 24™ is a bio-inspired active ingredient obtained by a hydroglycolic extraction of Imperata cylindrica roots. This plant can survive dry hostile environments in the desert. Moist 24 is rich in essential potassium and sulfur elements that increase water flow into the skin and prevent moisture loss. Clinical evaluationscompleted internally by Croda on both Caucasian and Black individuals demonstrated an intense immediate and lasting hydration. In rinse-off formulations like hydrating cleansers, it increases the skin’s moisture level by +42 % after 3 hours. This data can be found on our Moist 24 product detail page (you will need to register or logjn to access).

Combine Moist 24 with our AHA Phytocomplex™ rich in natural tartaric, lactic and citric acids to ensure the skin receives hydration, by a gentle exfoliation without irritation.

For sensitive skin concerns, Natrafusion™ SL HA is an ultra-mild cleanser with no loss in efficacy.

Hydration

Phytessence™ French Rose EC is a Rosa gallica flower extract specifically designed for skin flooding routines. It hydrates (+21 % after 1 month), soothes and protects the skin against external aggressions. Phytessence French Rose EC is suitable for hydrating mists or toners.

Boost skin hydration

Optim Hyal™ is a biofermentation-based active which contains Glycokines™ – oligosaccharides with a similar structure to hyaluronic acid fragments. The half-life of hyaluronic acid (HA) in the skin is less than one day. Optim Hyal stimulates HA cellular production by +35 % and prolongs its turnover by +55 %, to supply the skin with optimal superficial and deep hydration.

Use Crystalide™, a vectorised bio-highlighter peptide to fight against dullness. Crystalide promotes skin barrier regeneration and hydrates for clear, smooth and dewy skin like a piece of crystal.

Moisturisers

Matrixyl™ Synthe'6™ acts on the dermis and stimulates 6 skin-rebuilding essential constituents (HA, collagen I, III, IV, laminin-5 and fibronectin) for visibly smoother and plumper skin. 

Combine Matrixyl Synthe'6 with Repulpami™ EC for a holistic plumping effect on the dermis and hypodermis. Repulpami EC is a natural blend of organic certified white hibiscus calyx and baobab fruit extracts from eco-ethical sourcing in Senegal, suspended in organic glycerin. It acts on the hypodermis density by stimulating adipocyte maturation and adipogenesis for firmer, plumper skin. 

Heliami™ Sea Fennel EC – is a COSMOS approved sea fennel extract in high oleic sunflower oil with a proven TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss) reduction effect to support the skin’s natural ability to regenerate overnight.

Is skin flooding suitable for all skin types?

Individuals with oily or acne-prone skin should approach skin flooding cautiously, as excessive layering and insufficient cleansing can lead to breakouts.
Skin flooding is particularly useful in dry climates or during cold seasons, when the skin may lose moisture faster. It can be part of a larger Geoskincare routine.

Is overhydration good for skin?

While hydration is essential for healthy skin, overhydration can lead to negative effects. Excess moisture may trigger increased oil production, resulting in a greasy appearance, clogged pores and breakouts. It can also hinder the absorption of other skincare products and increase skin sensitivity, compromising the skin barrier. To maintain skin health, it is crucial to find the right balance in one’s hydration routine. 

Formulating for skin flooding

Our moisturising rose facial mist is a facial mist that is rich in moisturising botanical actives such as Cytokalmine™ EC and Phytessence French Rose EC.

The glow addict watery serum is an ideal serum choice due to the addition of Crystalide, a bio-highlighter peptide that moisturises and promotes a crystal skin.

The skin smoothing essence is a light and refreshing serum packed with high performance active ingredients like Matrixyl synthe’6 and OptimHyal.

La creme d'eau inverse with french rose is a silky smooth moisturising night cream with Phytessence French Rose EC to moisturise the skin, regulate sebocyte activity and protect against premature ageing.