Greener peptides for skin

What are peptides and how do they work?

Naturally present in the human body, peptides like proteins, are composed of amino acids (AA).

Peptides used for cosmetic applications are short chains (a maximum of 20 AA) and have very specific amino acid sequences. By mimicking natural mechanisms of action, they modulate a protein production pathway. The challenge for scientists is to find these very specific amino acid chains that enable the production of skin proteins such as collagens, elastin, hyaluronic acid, and other matrix components, like a key and a lock.

To understand how peptides work, watch the below video. Using the example of Matrixyl™, you can see how a peptide can stimulate fibroblasts to perform skin rejuvenation.

The wide variety of peptides available in the cosmetics industry provide many consumer benefits for the skin and hair such as, anti-wrinkle, skin firming, and rejuvenating hair follicles. They are found as key active ingredients in the composition of many highly targeted skin care and hair care products and in particular anti-ageing products.

Natural and synthetic peptides are both effective in delivering a specific benefit. Having entered the daily skin care routines of beauty consumers for decades, they still satisfy the growing consumer demandfor scientifically proven performance on skin.

So they’re effective but how sustainable are peptides?

Consumer perception of peptides is, unfortunately, that synthetic peptides are not sustainable. However, this has nothing to do with the facts around peptide production and use but more to do with a sense that natural = sustainable and synthetic = unsustainable.

Synthesised peptides are still made up of short chains of amino acids, components that are naturally present in the human body and the environment, thus bringing nothing foreign to those ecosystems.

Croda closely follows the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry for chemical synthesis. Putting sustainable development at the heart of our concerns, we take important measures to continuously improve our peptide synthesis process.

When performing chemical synthesis, our priority is to avoid the use of solvents that are harmful for people and the planet. We also continuously make progress in the reduction of energy consumption and in waste management.

The design of chemical reactions and synthesis routes is intended to be as safe as possible. That’s the reason why we already proudly offer PFAS-free peptides (1). By eliminating substances like TFA (trifluoroacetic acid) from our peptide synthesis process, we prioritise both consumer safety and sustainability. In advance of regulation evolution, we remain committed to providing innovative solutions that meet the highest standards of safety and efficacy.

Biopeptide CL™, Maxi-Lip™, Bio-Bustyl PH™, Matrixyl Synthe 6™, Volulip™, Silverfree ™, Biopeptide EL™, Dermaxyl™, Calmosensine™ and Idealift™ are already TFA-free and more will be progressively added to this list in the upcoming months to reach our goal of having PFAS-free status for our entire range of peptides by the end of 2026.

Cosmetic peptides for skin and naturality

The naturalness of cosmetic products is seen as a key concern for many consumers today.

ISO 16128 is a standard that helps ingredient selection when formulating, to meet the growing consumer demand for natural cosmetics. It offers a framework to determine the natural and organic origin content of products, based on ingredient characterisation. Peptides formulated in a solvent of natural origin (e.g. natural glycerine) meet the requirements of ISO 16128 with a very high natural origin index up to 99.99%. For example, our iconic peptide called Matrixyl 3000™ is now available in a greener grade of the same product known as Matrixyl 3000™ Glyx.  This RSPO and IECIC active ingredient is now also free from ethoxylates and carbomers.
 

What about natural peptides?

Peptides of natural origin are effective active ingredients that also meet heightened desires for “naturalness” that consumers look for. We also offer a range of naturally derived peptides. Poretect™, is derived from peptides that are naturally present in flaxseed which are cyclic and of perfectly defined size and composition.

Called “the green architect for an empowered skin”, Poretect also contains senkyunolide, which is naturally present in the seeds of Selenon (or celery, Apium graveolens). The activity of Poretect is due to its ability to stimulate the mitochondrial protein dynamics of the cell to re-densify and re-pulp the skin whilst improving its firmness and surface homogeneity. It also strengthens the pore sheath giving a younger look to the skin and moderates sebum productions.

Peptides and sustainable palm oil

Deforestation and other collateral damages linked to palm oil culture is a concern in the Personal Care industry. However, the answer is not to boycott palm oil but to transform the supply chain to – sustainable palm oil. Croda has received peer recognition for its work to deliver products containing sustainable palm oil derivatives, certified by the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO). Peptides from Croda Beauty Actives include a palmitic chain to enable their bioavailability. The palm derivatives used, in low amounts, to produce these peptides are RSPO certified according to Mass Balance (MB) supply chain model.

1. Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), often referred to as "forever chemicals," are a group of over 10,000 synthetic compounds used in various products, including cosmetics, for their water- and grease-resistant properties. These substances have raised significant environmental and health concerns due to their persistence in nature and potential toxicity.