Effortless sun protection with Solaveil™: From concept to creation

The evolution of solar protection is driven by a growing understanding of the sun's impact, with mineral sunscreens being a dominant trend in the sector. Croda's inorganic dispersions offer effective and safe sun protection while reducing the environmental burden on ecosystems. Formulators can optimize formulations by using water-based and oil-based inorganic dispersions in the correct emulsion phases, achieving high SPF values with a combination of mineral and organic sun filters.

Taking advantage of water-based and oil-based inorganic dispersions

When working with inorganic dispersions, it is crucial to incorporate them into the correct phase of the emulsion. Water-based dispersions should be added to the water phase, and oil-based dispersions to the oil phase, with stirring. Depending on the external phase of the emulsion, these dispersions can also be incorporated as a separate phase after emulsification. Water-based dispersions can be added post-emulsion in oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, while oil-based dispersions are best added post-emulsion in water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions. For both types, optimal results are achieved when used in systems based on nonionic or combined nonionic/anionic emulsifier systems, regardless of the external phase type.

While mineral sunscreens are trending, many sunscreen products in the market promote a combination of mineral and organic sun filters to enhance efficacy and sensory benefits. This is also a cost-effective method for achieving high SPF values and broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection.

The flexibility of inorganic dispersions in powder format

In comparison to powders, Solaveil™ dispersions simplify formulation processes by ensuring pre-optimized and consistent sun filter availability. Croda’s water-based Solaveil dispersions offer formulators numerous benefits, including greater freedom in the choice of oils. This flexibility allows the creation of sensory-optimised formulations and facilitates the solubilisation of solid organic UV filters in hybrid formulations.

How to seamlessly combine inorganic and organic dispersions

It is worth noting that certain organic sunscreens, such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and benzophenone-3, can produce a yellow tint when formulated with TiO₂ in the oil phase. While this does not impact the efficacy of the active ingredients, it can be cosmetically undesirable. To mitigate this, we recommend using Solaveil™ CT-60W or Solaveil™ CT-12W in formulations that contain these organic filters. Incorporating TiO₂ into the water phase keeps it separate from the oil-soluble organic UV filters, preventing any undesirable interactions.*

Taking advantage of format flexibility for wider applications

Another advantage of water-based inorganic dispersions is their greater flexibility in O/W emulsions. These emulsions allow for improved spreadability, resulting in less whitening on the skin and easier optimization of rheology, making it possible to formulate low-viscosity systems such as milks and sprays.

Most of Croda’s inorganic dispersions are ideal for natural formulations, as they hold COSMOS or ECOCERT approvals. These dispersions are known for being safe and mild, with a low potential for skin irritation, making them an excellent choice for products designed for all skin types, including babies, children, and those with sensitive skin.

UV protection is increasingly incorporated into colour cosmetics, such as BB creams, foundations, face powders, and lip products, as consumer interest in comprehensive sun care grows.(1) According to Mintel, in the US, 36% of consumers are interested in and willing to pay more for sunscreen made for specific skintones. (2) Additionally, 23% of Black US consumers state that they find it hard to find sunscreen that blends well with their skintone. Croda’s Solaveil™ Spextra’s range, specifically water based Solaveil™ XT-40W and oil-based Solaveil™ XT-300 are ideal for such formulations. Their larger particle size provides some whitening on the skin, offering a sheer white base along with SPF, UVA, and blue light protection. Water-based Solaveil™ Clarus dispersions such as Solaveil CT-12W and Solaveil CT-60W are also suitable for water-in-silicone (W/Si) foundations.

With Croda’s Solaveil range, formulators can embrace formulation freedom, crafting versatile and innovative sun care products with ease.

*In the U.S., under the FDA’s current proposed rules for sunscreen products, the combination of titanium dioxide and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is not permitted.

Reference:
1. SPATE
2. Mintel: Suncare & Skin Protection - US - 2024, Mintel