Dermacosmetics: a growing segment in Personal Care

Dermacosmetics is a new category offering safe and gentle cosmetic solutions connected to non-invasive aesthetic procedures, substituting or complementing treatments with pre and post applications solutions. In this article, we will cover cosmetic actives alternatives that can be used to meet this growing category.

Our digital era has resulted in a significant shift in self-perception, people want to look more like the digital image reflected by their phone rather than the one in their mirror. And this has driven the rise in popularity of non-invasive aesthetic technics (or cosmetic procedures), used mainly to enhance the facial or body appearance with little to no recovery time nor drastic physical transformation.

Among some of most popular nonsurgical procedures are botulinum toxin (Botox) injections, dermal fillers or chemical peels. The intent being to reduce expression lines, tighten saggy skin, smooth wrinkles and overall rejuvenate the skin.

This is an opportunity for brands to offer those savvy skintellectuals, products complementing or substituting cosmetic procedures. Product design should be centred around highly effective, substantiated ingredients delivering rapid and visible results.

Alternative to injections

Hyaluronic acid is a well-known anti-ageing molecule used extensively in both injection procedures and cosmetics products. Naturally present in the dermis alongside collagen and elastin, it fills the space between skin cells, acts as a skin cement, and is responsible for skin's glow, hydration and plumpness. The bioproduction of hyaluronic acid within our skin naturally declines with age. The skin loses its firmness, and wrinkles gradually appear. Biotechnology derived hyaluronic acid has been used for decades in the cosmetic industry to help maintain the skin’s youthfulness. In 2022, almost 1,800 products containing hyaluronic acid were launched and since 2013, the number of products containing hyaluronic acid has almost tripled. Hyaluronic acid is a large molecule, characterised by a very short half-life and often too big to penetrate the skin.

Optim Hyal™, an active obtained by biofermentation, has Glycokines™, oligosaccharides rich in the same monosaccharide as hyaluronic acid. It boosts natural biosynthesis of hyaluronic acid, restoring and sustaining its optimal level. Concurrently, Optim Hyal™ significantly stimulates elastin synthesis. Thanks to this 2-in-1 solution, skin is smoother, firmer and denser after only one month.

Just as hyaluronic acid, collagen has seen its use in cosmetics increase in recent years. Collagen, a protein naturally present in our body has been used for decades in cosmetics to fill in wrinkles, plump lips, regenerate tissue and improve skin suppleness. Like hyaluronic acid, collagen is continually renewed through natural biosynthesis. Reduction of fibrillar collagen is a characteristic feature of chronologically aged skin and is aggravated by exposome such as exposure to UV light. It is estimated that from the age of 30, the loss is around 1% per year.

Matrixyl 3000®, a biomimetic peptide in the iconic Matrixyl® range, slows down chronological and photo-induced ageing. This active ingredient stimulates the biosynthesis of different components of the extracellular matrix, and in particular four different types of collagens: collagen XVII, collagen VII, collagen IV and collagen I. Its eye contour skin texture smoothing results, after two months of application, are spectacular, regardless of gender.

Botulinum toxin is the most powerful of all known natural toxins. Type A botulinum toxin was first used for medical purposes in 1950. This neurotoxin acts at the neuromuscular junction by blocking nerve impulses. It diffuses inside the muscle, through intramuscular injection, and causes muscle fibres to relax. It is used to smooth skin appearance by decreasing expression lines. It is also used for other prescription purposes such as to combat excessive sweating. The extensive and prolonged used of chirurgical masks during Covid has seen the rise of cosmetic products with Botox-like claims to beautify the upper part of the face left uncovered by the mask. More recently, the commercial success of the Barbie movie saw another surge of Botox-like claim in cosmetic products, to meet the “Barbie-Botox” look trend.

Calmosensine SP™, a peptide with muscle relaxing benefits is used as an alternative to Botox. Calmosensine SP™ also offers soothing benefits to sensitive skin by modulating the perception of unpleasant sensations caused by thermal, chemical or tactile aggressors.

Alternative to skin-resurfacing

Skin-resurfacing procedures are intended to remove the outer layers of skin to reduce skin alterations, such as spots, superficial wrinkles or scars.

There are three skin-resurfacing techniques:

• Dermabrasion: a mechanical procedure which uses devices to sand the outer layers of skin.
• Laser: which uses a light beam to destroy the outer layer while heating the underlying dermis layer, hence stimulating collagen production.
• Chemical (peel): while chemicals, in the likes of glycolic acids, are applied to the skin in various strengths to peel off the upper layer.

There are three alternatives with different mechanisms of action:

BB-Biont™ stands for blemish-banned and holobiont (the superorganism created by our body and its microbiota). It is a biomimetic peptide that rebalances skin microbiome, preserves its biodiversity, smooths skin marks and even reduces deep pockmarks. It also acts on the inflammatory and post-inflammatory process and soothes the skin redness.

Retinoids are a class of chemical compounds derived from vitamin A widely used in the treatment of skin diseases such as acne, eczema and psoriasis. Tretinoin (topical) and isotretinoin (oral) are the main moderate to severe acne treatments on the market. Less potent forms of vitamin A or vit A precursors are used in cosmetics. Retinol is considered a hero ingredient sought after by consumers, the popularity of retinol based cosmetic products have been bloomed in recent years, however, retinol comes with several drawbacks. It is a very unstable molecule and may cause skin irritations.

ReVitAlide™ consists of an encapsulated retinol solution. This technology offers better stability, increased bioavailability and improved efficacy at lower dosage which means a high efficacy, well-tolerated retinol solution. Biological activities of ReVitAlide™ are identical to non-encapsulated retinol. It can reduce wrinkles and stretch marks as well as smooth skin blemishes and reinforce skin barrier function and immunity.

Medical peels work by inducing acute inflammation. Skin responds with increased growth of new cells and amplified collagen production. This technique acts on skin texture, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, acne, skin tone and radiance.

There are three different types of medical (or chemical) peel:

• Fruit acid peels or alpha hydroxy acids (AHA): superficial peel that exfoliates the epidermis. Glycolic acid is the most frequently used.
• Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peel: medium peel which exfoliates down to the superficial dermis.
• Phenol peel: deep peel that exfoliates down to the deep dermis.

As the skinification trend is taking the cosmetic market by storm, new product formats such as scalp exfoliating treatment are appearing on the shelves.

Fruitbio™, an alliance of green tea extract combined with lactic, citric and malic acids, provides an anti-pollution activity on the hair. Aside from its mild exfoliating property inherent to its acid composition, it reduces the adhesion of pollution particles on damaged and normal hair. Fruitbio™ helps to bring shininess back to the hair.

Alternative solutions for atopic skin

Corticosteroids, also known as corticoids, are steroid hormones secreted in humans by the cortex of the adrenal glands. They are involved in inflammatory and immunological processes and control stress. They are one of the main topical treatments for inflammatory skin conditions such as dermatitis or psoriasis by reducing inflammation, itching and scratching.

Apiscalp™ is a plant extract used to reduce scalp itching sensations by reducing the release of histamine (a mediator involved in the inflammatory response). It improves scalp’s purity by decreasing the quantity of dandruff. This inclusive product showed great performance on both men and women, oily and dry scalps, and on straight and textured hairs.

The inflammatory flare-ups of atopic dermatitis, such as eczema, can be limited by phototherapy. Some wavelengths have a natural anti-inflammatory effect and encourage healing of the epidermal tissues. The LED's 630mm wavelength penetrates the hypodermis and stimulates collagen. The stimulation of collagen by phototherapy promotes the renewal of skin cells and improves skin elasticity. After treatment, the complexion’s evenness is improved, wrinkles are eliminated, pores less visible and scars lightened.

Matrixyl® Synthe'6®, a biomimetic peptide of our iconic Matrixyl® range, boosts the synthesis of six major constituents of the skin: collagen I, collagen III, collagen IV, laminin-5, fibronectin and hyaluronic acid. Our ex vivo tests showed that Matrixyl® Synthe'6® works synergistically with LED therapy to improve skin collagen network degraded by UV rays. Used alone, Matrixyl® Synthe'6® showed excellent in vivo results after two months.

Alternative to laser for skin pigmentation disorders

Several techniques are used to treat age or sun-induced skin pigmentation disorders: luminotherapy, laser, cryosurgery, microdermabrasion and chemical peeling.

Mel[o]stem™, a plant cell culture active ingredient, preserves skin's sun capital by maintaining melanocyte function and by counteracting harmful effects of UV rays. It is the first cosmetic active ingredient that targets both dark and white spots. It respectively acts on pigmentation and spot volume. Mel[o]stem™ unifies the complexion and strengthens skin’s defence.

Alternative to hair loss treatments 

Minoxidil, a drug originally used to treat high blood pressure had the unusual side effects to increase hair growth. Topical application of minoxidil to the scalp enhances hair growth by maintaining active proliferation of keratinocytes in the follicle.

Procapil® is an iconic hair loss cosmetic active. It increases hair density for both men and women, fights premature hair loss by increasing the anagen phase (hair growth) and decreasing the telogen phase (hair loss). Procapil® depicts a similar performance to Minoxidil without any effect on the overall body health.

Note: it is important to remember the basis of cosmetic regulations. Cosmetics and pharmaceutical product’s design are governed by separate and specific regulations. A cosmetic product is meant to be applied topically, cannot be injected nor should it penetrate the systemic bloodstream or heal pathological skin disorders. A good example are retinoids which can fall under either drug or cosmetic regulations. Retinoic acid, the most powerful form of vitamin A, is widely used in anti-acne treatments under medical prescription and may cause severe side reactions. Meanwhile, retinol, part of the retinoid family, is not approved to treat acne but is approved for use in cosmetics, to prevent and address unpleasant acne side effect (marks, redness).