The rise of Skin Cycling: Combining active ingredients and textures for enhanced skincare results

What is skin cycling?

Skin cycling involves rotating powerful active ingredients to deliver effective results without overwhelming the skin or damaging its natural barrier. This innovative approach was developed by New York dermatologist Whitney Bowe and is generating a lot of interest on social media platforms. It has more than 3.5 billion views on TikTok, where influencers admit that it could help achieve the “glass skin” effect that is so widely sought after today in a very short time.

By alternating high-performance actives and recovery-focused products over a four-night cycle, skin cycling focuses on one key ingredient per night and allows for a balanced and minimalist approach to skincare that promotes renewal while preventing irritation or overuse of actives.

At its core, skin cycling is a nighttime skincare regimen that utilises a rotating schedule of specific products to enhance skin renewal. The cycle consists of:

• Night 1: Exfoliation - Begin with an exfoliating product to remove dead skin cells and prepare the skin for further treatments.
• Night 2: Retinol - Apply a retinol-based product to promote cell turnover and reduce signs of ageing.
• Nights 3 & 4: Recovery - Focus on hydration and barrier repair with nourishing serums and moisturisers.

This method is rooted in a "less-is-more" philosophy and can be adapted to various skin types. It allows the skin to recover while still reaping the benefits of potent ingredients like retinol and exfoliants without the risk of overuse.

What are the benefits of skin cycling?

The benefits of this routine are multifaceted:

• Improved skin texture: Regular exfoliation and retinol use can lead to smoother, more refined skin.
• Minimised irritation: By cycling potent ingredients, the risk of irritation and dryness is significantly reduced, protecting the skin barrier.
• Enhanced skin barrier function: Recovery nights allow the skin's natural barrier to strengthen, promoting overall health and resilience.

The results from skin cycling can be expected relatively quickly. Noticeable improvements typically occur after just two cycles (about eight days). Within this timeframe, the skin may already appear more radiant, softer, and more hydrated.

In due course, this routine offers further enhancements in skin texture, reduction of fine lines, and overall improvements in complexion over the following months. Consistency is key, which is why sticking to the routine will ensure the best long-term results.

Which consumers are interested in skin cycling?

Skin cycling appeals to a diverse group of consumers who are motivated by specific skin concerns or the desire for a more personalised skincare routine.

• Skincare enthusiasts: Passionate about the latest trends, often influenced by social media and dermatologist recommendations.
• Health-conscious consumers: Focused on long-term skin well-being, appreciating routines that minimise irritation and enhance the skin barrier.
• Individuals with specific skin concerns: Attracted by the ability to manage issues like sensitivity or acne while reducing irritation from active ingredients.
• Younger demographics: Primarily aged 18-24, drawn to innovative, effective skincare solutions that promise results without overwhelming the skin.
• Educated consumers: Prefer scientifically backed products and routines, valuing dermatologist-approved methods for effective skincare.

With the right choice of products, it can be adapted to the different skin types, and address clear goals such as reducing acne, combat signs of ageing or improve overall texture.

However, the success of this routine lies not only in the combination of active ingredients but also in the textures and formulations that optimise the release of these ingredients. New technologies such as liquid crystal emulsions and advanced moisturisers have revolutionised the way ingredients are delivered to the skin.

Advanced ingredients for optimised texture in skin cycling

In addition to actives, new ingredient technologies are enhancing the effectiveness of skin cycling routines. These innovative formulations not only provide active benefits but also help to optimise texture, absorption, and delivery for higher long-term skin well-being. This kind of formulation can enhance a skin cycling overnight routine, alternating the three steps of exfoliation, retinoids and recovery. The alternation of nights with active ingredients and taking breaks to moisturise and let the skin recover allows the skin to accept a higher concentration of active ingredients better than if they were used every night while preventing any risk of damaging your skin's barrier.

Croda Beauty has a range of ideal chassis products and formulation ingredients that help formulators to provide the right texture for every step of a skin cycling beauty routine.

Lightweight, highly penetrating textures for better exfoliation

Exfoliation night care products typically benefit from lightweight textures like water-based serums or gels that allow acids to absorb quickly and effectively. These formulations ensure that dead skin cells are swiftly removed without leaving residue or clogging pores.

Crodamol™ ISIS is among our ideal ingredients for providing a light texture, while it restores the skin’s barrier by providing deep hydration and counteracts the potential irritation caused by strong exfoliation actives. This unique ingredient works in synergy with the skin’s lipid layers to lock in moisture and prevent water loss. By enhancing the skin’s natural barrier, Crodamol ISIS helps long-lasting hydration during recovery nights, ensuring the skin remains supple and healthy even after intense treatments.

Amigum™ is a useful gelling ingredient with thickening properties for formulas containing exfoliants that are known to be difficult to stabilise, such as AHAs formulated with an acid pH, anionic, cationic and amphoteric molecules which usually break the viscosity of the gels. This natural alternative to synthetic agents and carbomers has also be shown to bring hydration and a pleasant feeling of softness to the skin.

Slow-Release and hydrating for enhancing efficacy of retinoids

When it comes to overnight skin care containing retinoids, formulations require a balance between effective penetration and soothing hydration. Emulsifiers like Arlacel™ LC allow for a gradual release of actives, reducing irritation, while providing unique sensorial properties.

The liquid crystal structures in formulations containing this oil-in-water emulsifier mimic the skin’s natural layers. When applied, these hydrosomes release active ingredients slowly over time, providing long-lasting hydration while reducing irritation. This slow-release mechanism makes retinoid delivery much smoother and more tolerable and is a great asset for concentrated formulations, where a gentle, gradual release is crucial to avoid overloading the skin.

Recovery night products: rich and protective

After one night of intensive exfoliation followed by another of retinoid use, there comes two recovery nights. This step in skin cycling calls for richer, more emollient products such as Supermol™ B MBAL to replenish and protect the skin naturally. This plant-based alternative to traditional lanolin offers excellent skin barrier protection, while avoiding the animal-derived components many consumers now prefer to avoid. Its neutral scent and colour make it ideal for recovery nights that replenish the skin’s natural defences after exfoliation and retinoid use.

The protective films created by OleoCraft™ LP-20 used in clear balms, sprayable gels, or emulsions, are also particularly useful for layering protection during recovery nights, creating a breathable yet protective layer to prevent moisture loss. This oil-structuring polymer creates impressive films on the skin, adding water resistance and wear durability to formulations. 

Key facts to remember

Skin cycling combines the power of active ingredients with the gentleness of allowing your skin to rest and recover. By integrating advanced ingredients like those we just discussed about, you can tailor your routine to ensure that not only are your active ingredients working much more effectively, but that your skin is also supported and protected at every stage.

• The light texture of serums and gels ensure ensures quick absorption, making them ideal for the exfoliation stage, where acids need to penetrate the skin efficiently.
• Creams and emulsions, and most prominently liquid crystal emulsions, offer a texture that helps reduce irritation while delivering maximum benefits, including a smooth, slow release of retinoids and other actives.
• The thicker textures of balms and rich creams are to be preferred on recovery nights as they provide a protective, water-resistant barrier that ensures lasting hydration and skin comfort.

This beauty trend is here to stay, offering a science-driven, thoughtful approach to skincare that balances innovation, efficacy, and gentle care. With the right combination of textures and technologies, skin cycling can lead to clearer, healthier, and more resilient skin.